The Cocos Malays of Cocos Keeling Islands, refer to themselves as Orang Pulu, the “People of the Islands”.

In 1826, through a series of strange turn of events, two British sailors were searching for a patch of land in the vast Indian Ocean, to develop and make their fortune.One, named Alexander Hare, landed in Cocos Keeling Islands and brought his contingent of slaves and a harem; he had grown all too comfortable with his lifestyle based in Muslim Borneo until he was evicted by the Dutch; the other John Clunies-Ross, who had worked for Hare and now a free agent, also believed that the Cocos Keeling Islands were ideal for his intended purpose and settled there with his wife, Elizabeth and 170 or so labourers.

Hare managed to stay on his side of the islands, for about 4 years, where the two competed for power, when eventually he lost out to Ross and departed for South Africa.His slaves voluntarily went to work for Ross.The history of Cocos-Keeling Islands is inter-twined with the Ross family, as it is impossible to separate the two. The Ross family ran the islands for over 150 years, while the Orang Pulu worked tirelessly to produce copra to make coconut oil, which was a lucrative trade during that period.

John Clunies-Ross was born in Shetland, Scotland in 1786 and died on Home Island in 1854. In 1837 he signed a social contract with the Orang Pulu, whereby he promised to feed, clothe and house the people in return for their work and loyalty. He had, by the time John-George, his eldest son had taken over the reigns in 1821, established a fairly successful copra plantation and a system of government for the Orang Pulu whose numbers grew to around 300 people.

The islands worked in a very unique and fascinating way:John George was referred to as Tuan Pandai, (Intelligent Lord), he was seen as a benevolent leader and primary carer for the Orang Pulu, they believed he possessed supernatural powers and could ward off cyclones. The Orang Pulu themselves were a mixture of races, including Javanese, Sundanese, Bantamese, and several Papuans and Africans. They spoke Malay and practiced Islam, albeit, in a very nominal and superstitious way.

The tiny atoll became its own independent nation, it held no loyalty to any sovereign state, and Tuan Pandai was in effect the lone Raja or ‘king’ of the Cocos Islands.He, in some ways acted like a king and the Orang Pulu treated him as such.He minted his own coinage made of pressed sheep skin.

The men after the age of 14, had to work by collecting coconuts and some were chosen as headmen, who led the community, enforcing the work orders and ensuring that the men worked hard. There were several laws that governed the islands,one being that no one was allowed to communicate with the outside world and if they left the island, they were not permitted to return. This was a way to isolate the Orang Pulu and prevent them from getting new ideas or to challenge Tuan’s authority.

In 1857 Great Britain annexed the islands and it became a protectorate of the British Empire. In 1886 Queen Victoria granted the islands to George Clunies-Ross, now the third generation to take over the islands, he was called Tuan Tinggi (Powerful Lord).

In 1887 Ross, who was an engineer, commenced building an extravagant mansion on Home Island, naming it ‘Oceania House’. It was built of imported white glazed bricks and completed in 1893, and included a two-storey tower, 5 bedrooms, a large kitchen, a library and dining and lounge rooms, later a ballroom was added, a nursery and a billiard room and two more bedrooms.The interior was built from five tonnes of Teakwood imported from Christmas Island.In 1909 a devastating cyclone destroyed many of the homes and felled thousands of coconut trees. In 1910, George Clunies-Ross died on the Isle of Wight.

He was succeeded by John Sidney, who was referred to as Tuan Ross. He was descendant of George and a Malay wife named Inin. Tuan Ross was faced with rebuilding the island’s economy after the devastating cyclone destroyed every coconut tree on the islands. And after copra prices fell dramatically, there was widespread poverty amongst the Orang Pulu who numbered over a 1300 by now.He was still very dedicated to the islanders and tried to maintain their standard of living and provide as much as he could, according to the social contract of 1837.However, in 1944 during World War 2, a Japanese fighter plane attacked Home Island. It narrowly missed bombing Oceania House and destroyed 27 homes and killed two Orang Pulu. Tuan Ross died several days later (probably from an heart attack).

John Cecil now referred to as Tuan John, came to power and immediately set about establishing his reign.Tuan John was known for walking around barefoot, wearing all white, and brandishing a large dagger on his belt and of course speaking Malay.Copra production recommenced and things were getting back to normal.

In 1954 the Islands were visited by Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh, they toured island and visited Oceania House. It was a memorable occasion and brought great prestige to Tuan John. But it was the last of the good times for the Clunies-Ross family.

In 1955 the islands were transferred from the United Kingdom to the Commonwealth of Australia.By the 1970’s Australia had now asserted its influence over the islands and in 1978 concerned about the feudal system of governing on the island, the government purchased the islands from the Clunies-Ross family for 6.25 million dollars not including Oceania House.In 1984 the islanders were granted a referendum to choose if they would like to stay with Tuan John, become an independent nation or join Australia. They chose the latter.

Today, the islands are a part of the Indian Ocean Territories which includes Christmas Island.

Besides having strategic military value, they serve as a base for Home Affairs’ Border Force and a small but growing tourism industry.

The islands are truly amazing, with bright Azure coloured waters, temperatures are consistent around 27 degrees and the islands are relatively unspoilt, one of the few places in the world where you can find complete halal tourism.The whole population on Home Island are Muslim, the Adhaan is called five times a day from the only mosque and there is no alcohol or pork on the island.

It is a wonderful place to immerse yourself in nature and discover the local culture, the history and the delicious cuisine, and of course enjoy the peace and seclusion, a place to unwind and de-stress from our busy lives on the mainland. If you want to find out more about a holiday to the islands, please contact me on fairdirector@gmail.com and I will organise an unforgettable stay at Oceania House for you and your family!